If you trace the evolution of cycling jerseys, from wool to heavy synthetics to polyester to hi-tech poly/lycra blends, the trend is clear: jerseys are getting thinner, lighter and stretchier. Consequently, they have become smaller as they are able to expand over your body. At the same time, cycling shorts have evolved from scratchy wool into much more comfortable bibs which come up higher on the waist, allowing the jerseys to be cut higher.
Our jerseys are “Race Cut" which means they are designed to fit tight, unlike a “club fit” which is generally looser and more like a regular shirt. A properly-fit cycling jersey should feel like a second skin: tight but not too tight. Cycling fabric isn’t meant to drape like a t-shirt. There should be no “blousing” or loose fabric, sometimes called “bacon arms” because the loose fabric crinkles up like bacon on a griddle. When a jersey fits properly, it is more aero, doesn’t flap in the breeze, the wicking fabric works properly and you look rad as hell.
If you prefer a looser "club cut" fit that is a bit closer to a regular shirt, we recommend you go up at least one size.
Above, an example of a "club cut" or very loose jersey sleeve fit.
Trying on a Jersey:
Do not wear a tee shirt underneath. The jersey should stretch a bit on your back and waist as you put it on. If you have trouble zipping all the way up or you can't raise your arms up, the jersey is probably too small. If you can pinch any material under the sleeves, on the chest or along the zipper too easily the jersey may be too big. When you bend over you should get very little drapery folding.
Jersey Length:
Modern high-end jerseys have short torsos and are designed to be worn with bib shorts. The jersey should come down to about 2-4 inches below the belly button. When you are in a cycling position, tucked over, the fit will change and will be lower than when you’re standing. The short-waisted jersey also helps prevents the dreaded "stomach wiener" effect that results from extra fabric draping outward in the riding position.
Sleeve Fit:
"Laser-cut" sleeves end in a smooth straight line with no sewn hem or cuff for a clean look and smooth finish. A properly fitting sleeve should be pretty tight, with some compression so it requires a little pull to get on, but not a big effort.
A laser-cut sleeve is quite long and should go almost to the elbow when the jersey is first put on. It will move up a bit as you ride. If any material hangs off the end of your elbow or if the end of the sleeve goes past the elbow, it's too big. If you can see wrinkles or creases around the shoulder and chest it's too big. If you have trouble getting it over your biceps or shoulder, the jersey is probably too small.
If you already have a piece of cycling kit that you like, the charts below will help you compare our sizing.
Garments measured in inches, measured flat.
in | Collar to Bottom of Jersey | Chest Under Armpit* | Lower Waist |
---|---|---|---|
XXS | 19 | 13.5 | 12 |
XS | 19.5 | 14 | 12.25 |
S | 20 | 15.5 | 14 |
M | 20.5 | 16 | 14 |
L | 21 | 16.5 | 15 |
XL | 22 | 18 | 16.5 |
XXL | 23 | 19.5 | 18 |
* including half of each side panel
in | Collar to Bottom of Jersey | Chest Under Armpit* | Lower Waist |
---|---|---|---|
XS | 19 | 15.5 | 13 |
S | 19.5 | 16.5 | 14 |
M | 19.875 | 17.25 | 14.5 |
L | 20.5 | 18.5 | 15.5 |
XL | 21 | 19 | 17 |
XXL | 22.5 | 21 | 19 |
* including half of each side panel
in | Collar to Bottom of Shirt | Chest Under Armpit | Lower Waist |
---|---|---|---|
XXS | 22 | 19 | 18 |
XS | 22.5 | 19.5 | 18.5 |
S | 23 | 20 | 19 |
M | 24 | 21.5 | 21 |
L | 25 | 23 | 22.5 |
XL | 25 | 24 | 23.5 |
XXL | 25.5 | 24.5 | 24 |